Free · Updated for 2026

Closing Cost Calculator

Know your exact cash to close: down payment, lender fees, title, prepaids, and the transfer tax for your state, minus any seller credits.

Free closing cost calculator with typical transfer taxes and averages for all 50 states plus DC. Itemize every buyer cost, benchmark it against your state, and see what seller credits and fee shopping save.

  • All 50 states + DC
  • Instant results
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  • Privacy-first
Live calculation
runs locally
see two plans side by side
The purchase
Home pricepurchase price
Down payment$80.0K down · loan $320.0K
%
Stateno state transfer tax
Cash to close
$88,354
$80.0K down + $8.4K costs & prepaids
Closing costs
1.6% of price
$6.5K
Transfer tax (TX)
no transfer tax
$0
Prepaids & escrow
taxes, insurance, interest
$1.9K
Down payment
20% down
$80.0K
Typical in TX
state average, all-in
~1.5% ($6.0K)
What moves this result

What moves your cash to close, ranked.

You need $88.4K at the table in Texas: $80.0K down, $6.5K in closing costs (1.6% of price) and $1.9K of prepaids. Each move below re-runs the math with one input changed.
Negotiate a $5.0K seller creditBiggest impact
conventional loans allow 3-9% of price in concessions
−$5.0K cash to close
Talk the origination fee down to 0.50%
lenders compete hardest on this line; get 3 Loan Estimates
−$1.6K cash to close
Shop title insurance (about 30% off is common)
you are allowed to pick the title company
−$600 cash to close
Cost breakdown
Your estimate vs the typical Texas closing bill
Line by line

Full itemized closing cost estimate.

Lender fees$3,200
Loan origination fee
1% of loan
$3,200
Third-party fees$3,150
Appraisal fee
$500
Title insurance (lender + owner)
shoppable
$2,000
Settlement / escrow fee
$650
Taxes & government$150
Recording fees
$150
Prepaids & escrow$1,854
Property tax escrow (2 mo)
$733
Homeowners insurance (2 mo)
$233
Prepaid interest (15 days)
$888
Total costs & prepaids (2.1% of price)
$8,354
Who pays what

Buyer costs vs seller costs on this deal.

Cost
Buyer side
Seller side
Note
Lender fees (origination, points)
$3,200
-
shop 3+ lenders
Title, appraisal, settlement
$3,150
-
title is shoppable
Transfer tax (TX)
$0
-
none in this state
Prepaids & escrow
$1,854
-
your money, held in escrow
Agent commissions (~5%)
-
$20,000
traditionally seller-paid
Typical total
$8,354
$20,000
seller usually pays more
Shareable

Share your cash-to-close estimate.

The PDF report itemizes every fee line for your lender and contract negotiation; the breakdown card downloads as a PNG.

The PDF carries your inputs, results, and scenarios, plus a link that re-opens this calculator with everything pre-filled.

lazysmirkclosing-cost-calculator
My cash to close in TX
$88,354
$6.5K closing costs (1.6% of price) + $1.9K prepaids.
Home price
$400.0K
Down payment
20%
State
TX
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Quick Answers

Closing Cost Calculator, in 30 seconds.

Direct answers to the most common questions, in plain language. Skim if you're in a hurry; dig deeper below.

How much are closing costs on a home purchase?

Answer

Typically 2-5% of the purchase price, and your state is the biggest variable.

US buyer closing costs typically run 2-5% of the purchase price, including prepaids. The spread is mostly state taxes: Missouri and Indiana buyers often pay near 1-1.5% because there is no transfer tax, while Delaware, Pennsylvania, Maryland, and DC buyers can pay 4%+ once transfer taxes land on the bill. This calculator carries typical transfer-tax and average-cost figures for all 50 states plus DC.

What is cash to close?

Answer

Down payment + closing costs + prepaids − seller credits: the wire you send on signing day.

Cash to close is the total money you bring to settlement: your down payment, plus lender and third-party fees, plus government taxes, plus prepaid escrow items (property tax, insurance, and interest), minus any seller credits or lender credits. It is the bottom-line number on your Closing Disclosure, and it is always bigger than "closing costs" alone.

Who pays closing costs, the buyer or the seller?

Answer

Buyers pay lender, title, and prepaid costs; sellers typically pay agent commissions and often more overall.

Buyers typically pay the loan-related costs: origination, appraisal, title insurance, settlement fees, and prepaids. Sellers traditionally pay the agent commissions (about 5-6% of the price) plus, in many states, some or all of the transfer tax, so the seller side of the ledger is usually larger. Everything except government charges is negotiable in the purchase contract.

Can I roll closing costs into my mortgage?

Answer

On a purchase, mostly no. On a refinance, yes. Lender credits are the workaround.

Purchase loans generally cannot finance closing costs, because the loan is capped by the price and your down payment. The two workarounds are seller credits (negotiated in the contract) and lender credits (the lender pays your costs in exchange for a higher rate). Refinances are different: most lenders will roll refinance closing costs into the new loan balance.

How it works

How closing cost calculator works.

The mechanics in short answers. No jargon, no upsell.

01

Lender fees are charged by your bank or mortgage company.

The origination fee (typically 0.5-1% of the loan) and optional discount points (1 point = 1% of the loan for a lower rate) are the two big lender charges. Both appear on your Loan Estimate and vary widely between lenders.

02

Third-party fees go to service providers you hire.

The appraisal (~$500), lender’s and owner’s title insurance (~0.5% of the price combined), and the settlement or escrow agent fee (~$500-800) make up this bucket. You can shop most of them; your Loan Estimate lists the providers you are allowed to choose.

03

Government charges depend on your state.

Recording fees are small (~$150), but transfer taxes range from zero in states like Texas, Missouri, and Montana to 2-4% of the price in Pennsylvania, Delaware, and DC. Who pays them, buyer, seller, or split, is set by state custom and your contract.

04

Prepaids front-load ongoing homeownership costs.

At closing you typically fund about two months of property tax and insurance into escrow, plus interest from your closing date to the end of the month (about 15 days at mid-month). These are not fees; they are your money held in escrow.

The math behind it

Full transparency
Cash to close = down payment + closing costs + prepaids − seller credits
Closing costs = origination + points + appraisal + title + settlement + recording + transfer tax
Transfer tax = state rate × price (typical state + local rate, split varies)
Prepaid interest = loan × (rate ÷ 100 ÷ 365) × 15 days
origination
origination % × loan; points cost 1% of loan each
title
lender + owner title insurance, ~0.5% of price, shoppable
state rate
typical transfer-tax % for your state (0 in about a dozen states)
prepaids
~2 months property tax + insurance escrow + prepaid daily interest
loan
price × (1 − down payment %)

Worked example: On a $400,000 home with 20% down in Texas at 6.75%, the model itemizes about $6,500 of fees (1.6% of price) and about $1,854 of prepaids. Texas charges no transfer tax, so cash to close is roughly $88,354: the $80,000 down payment plus $8,354 of costs and prepaids.

Per-state transfer-tax rates and averages are planning approximations, not quotes; actual rates vary by county and city, and every fee line is editable. The math is a straight itemized sum and runs locally in your browser; your numbers never leave this page.

How to use

Four steps. About 20 seconds.

Designed so anyone can model their situation in under a minute, with or without a finance background.

  1. Step 1
    Enter price and down payment
    Start with your purchase price and down payment percentage. The loan amount and down payment dollars are derived automatically.
  2. Step 2
    Pick your state
    The state sets the typical transfer-tax rate and the benchmark closing percentage your estimate is compared against.
  3. Step 3
    Fine-tune fees and credits
    Open the fine-tune panel to set your rate, origination fee, title insurance, discount points, and any seller credits you plan to negotiate.
  4. Step 4
    Read your cash to close
    The hero number is cash to close: down payment plus all costs and prepaids, minus credits, with every line itemized below.
Benefits

Why this matters.

One cash-to-close number

Down payment plus every fee, tax, and prepaid, minus seller credits: the single number you need on signing day.

Per-state transfer taxes

Typical transfer-tax rates and average closing costs for all 50 states plus DC are built in; pick your state and the tax line updates.

Itemized by category

Lender fees, third-party fees, taxes and government charges, and prepaids: each bucket broken out so you know where to negotiate.

Model seller credits

See exactly how a $5,000 or $10,000 seller credit changes your cash to close, and what concession caps apply by loan type.

Benchmark your estimate

Compare your itemized estimate against your state’s typical all-in closing percentage to spot quotes that look inflated.

Prepaids included

Property tax escrow, homeowners insurance, and prepaid interest are often forgotten. This calculator surfaces them all.

FAQ

Closing Cost Calculator, answered.

Everything you might ask before, during, or after using this tool.

Written for borrowers, not bankersPlain-language, jargon-freeReviewed quarterly
What is included in closing costs?

Closing costs fall into four buckets: lender fees (origination, discount points), third-party fees (appraisal, title insurance, settlement agent), government charges (transfer taxes, recording fees), and prepaids (property tax escrow, homeowners insurance, daily interest). Fees alone typically run 1.5-3% of the price; adding transfer taxes and prepaids pushes the all-in total to 2-5% depending on your state.

How do transfer taxes vary by state?

Transfer taxes (also called deed, stamp, or excise taxes) are the single biggest reason closing costs differ by state. Roughly a dozen states charge none at all, including Texas, Missouri, Indiana, Montana, North Dakota, and Wyoming. Most states charge a fraction of a percent. At the high end, Pennsylvania commonly totals about 2%, Delaware about 4%, and Washington DC combines recordation and transfer taxes near 3%. Whether the buyer or seller pays is set by local custom and can be negotiated in the contract.

Can I shop for title insurance?

Yes, and you should. Title insurance and settlement services are "shoppable" under federal rules: your Loan Estimate lists providers you are allowed to replace with your own. Premiums for the same coverage commonly vary 20-30% between title companies, and in some states you can also ask for a "reissue rate" discount when the home was insured recently. On a combined lender-plus-owner premium of about 0.5% of the price, shopping can save several hundred dollars.

What are the seller concession limits by loan type?

Conventional loans cap seller concessions by down payment: 3% of the price when you put down less than 10%, 6% between 10% and 25% down, and 9% above 25% down. FHA allows up to 6% regardless of down payment. VA caps true concessions (like paying off your debts or funding fee) at 4%, though normal closing costs the seller pays are outside that cap. Credits beyond the cap are lost, so do not negotiate more credit than your loan allows.

Who pays closing costs: buyer or seller?

Buyers pay the loan-related costs: lender fees, appraisal, title, settlement, and prepaids. Sellers traditionally pay agent commissions of about 5-6% of the price, and in many states the transfer tax by custom, so the seller usually pays more in total. Almost everything except government charges is negotiable: buyers can ask for seller credits, and sellers can ask buyers to absorb the transfer tax in a hot market.

Can I roll closing costs into my mortgage?

On a purchase, mostly no: the loan is limited by the purchase price minus your down payment. The practical alternatives are seller credits negotiated in the contract or lender credits, where the lender covers costs in exchange for a higher interest rate. On a refinance, yes: most lenders let you add closing costs to the new loan balance, which is why "no cash due" refinances are common.

What are prepaids, and why are they part of cash to close?

Prepaids are money you put into escrow or pay in advance for costs you would have as a homeowner anyway: typically about two months of property taxes and homeowners insurance, plus interest from your closing date to the end of the month. They are not fees, but they are real cash due at signing, which is why this calculator includes them in cash to close. Closing at the end of the month shrinks the prepaid-interest line.

What is the difference between the Loan Estimate and the Closing Disclosure?

The Loan Estimate is a standardized three-page form your lender must deliver within 3 business days of your application. The Closing Disclosure is the final version, delivered at least 3 business days before closing. Compare them line by line: lender fees have zero tolerance and cannot increase, shoppable third-party services have 10% aggregate tolerance, and prepaids can change but must be estimated in good faith.

What are closing costs, and why do they vary so much by state?

Closing costs are the fees, taxes, and prepaid expenses you pay on the day you take ownership of a home. They exist because buying a home requires a fleet of professionals (a lender, an appraiser, a title company, a settlement agent, sometimes an attorney) plus your state and county government, all of whom charge for their part.

The often-quoted 2-5% range is wide because the state tax line is wild. A buyer in Missouri or Indiana, where there is no transfer tax, might close for barely 1% of the price plus prepaids. A buyer in Delaware faces a 4% transfer tax before a single lender fee is counted, and Washington DC stacks recordation and transfer taxes near 3%. That is why this calculator asks for your state first: the tax line is the piece you cannot negotiate, so you should know it early.

Cash to close: the number that actually matters

Lenders and listing sites love to quote "closing costs", but the number your bank wires on signing day is cash to close: down payment + closing costs + prepaids − credits. On a $400,000 home with 20% down, roughly $6,500 of fees and $1,850 of prepaids turn an $80,000 down payment into about $88,400 due at the table.

The prepaid side surprises many first-time buyers. About two months of property taxes and homeowners insurance go into your new escrow account, and you pay interest from the closing date to month-end upfront. None of that is a fee, but all of it is cash you must have on hand, on top of your down payment and moving costs.

What is negotiable, and what is not

Government charges are fixed by law. Transfer taxes and recording fees are what they are; no lender or agent can waive them (though which side pays can be negotiated in the contract). Everything else is at least partially negotiable.

Lender origination fees are the biggest variable line item, varying from 0% to 1%+ of the loan between lenders. On a $320,000 loan, the difference between 0.5% and 1% origination is $1,600. Getting Loan Estimates from three lenders and comparing Section A line by line is the single highest-ROI hour of the home buying process.

Title insurance and settlement fees are "shoppable" services; your Loan Estimate lists providers, and you can use your own. Title premiums in particular can vary 20-30% between providers on the same transaction.

Seller concessions and lender credits explained

Seller concessions are a credit from the seller at closing, negotiated in the purchase contract. They reduce your cash to close but come out of the seller’s proceeds, so in competitive markets asking for concessions can weaken your offer. In buyer’s markets they are routine, and they are the fastest way to cut thousands off the wire amount.

Concession limits by loan type: conventional loans allow 3% of the price when your down payment is under 10%, 6% when it is 10-25%, and 9% above 25% down. FHA caps concessions at 6%. VA caps true concessions at 4% of the price, although reasonable closing costs the seller pays sit outside that cap. Credits above the cap are simply lost, so match your ask to your loan.

Lender credits work differently: your lender raises your interest rate slightly and applies the resulting premium to your closing costs. This is the "no-closing-cost" mortgage concept. You pay less on day one but more every month for the life of the loan; the right choice depends on how long you plan to keep it.

Discount points: calculating your break-even

Buying discount points is prepaying interest. Each point costs 1% of the loan amount and typically reduces your rate by 0.20-0.25%. The break-even calculation is simple: divide the cost of the points by the monthly savings in your payment.

Example: on a $320,000 loan at 7%, buying one point ($3,200) might reduce your rate to 6.75%. That saves roughly $53 per month. Break-even: $3,200 / $53 = about 60 months, or five years. Sell or refinance before then and the points were a bad deal; stay past it and every month after is pure savings.

Points make the most sense when rates are high, you have a long time horizon, and cash to spare at closing. They rarely make sense on short ownership horizons, or when the same cash could instead raise your down payment out of PMI territory.

From Good Faith Estimate to Loan Estimate: the TRID rules

Before 2015, lenders provided a Good Faith Estimate (GFE) that was notoriously imprecise: fees could balloon between the estimate and closing with little recourse. The TRID rules (TILA-RESPA Integrated Disclosure) replaced the GFE with the standardized Loan Estimate in October 2015.

The Loan Estimate uses a three-bucket tolerance system. Section A (lender fees, points) has zero tolerance; those numbers cannot increase between LE and closing. Shoppable third-party services have 10% aggregate tolerance. Prepaids, escrow, and other costs have unlimited tolerance but must still be estimated in good faith.

When you receive a Closing Disclosure three business days before closing, compare it to your Loan Estimate line by line. Any increase in Section A is a violation. If something looks wrong, ask your lender to explain it in writing; it is better to push the closing date than to overpay permanently.

Trust & transparency

How this tool behaves, and what it isn't.

Two short notes worth reading before you trust any number on this page.

Privacy

Calculations run locally in your browser.

Your loan amount, rate, and prepayment inputs never leave your device. No accounts, no cookies on your numbers, no analytics on the values you type. Disconnect from the internet and it still works.

  • No account required
  • No data stored or sent
  • Works offline
  • No third-party trackers
Disclaimer

Lazysmirk is a tools platform, not a financial institution.

We are not a bank, NBFC, advisor, broker, or distributor of any financial product. The numbers shown here are estimates for educational purposes only, based on the inputs you provide.

Results are not financial, legal, or tax advice. Please consult a qualified professional before any decision about your loan, investments, or personal finances. Actual loan terms and charges depend on your bank and individual circumstances.