What is PMI?
Insurance for the lender when you put down less than 20%.
Private Mortgage Insurance protects the lender if you default. You pay it monthly until your loan-to-value (LTV) drops to 78–80%. Then it cancels automatically.
See monthly PMI, when it cancels, and lifetime PMI cost at any down payment.
Calculate private mortgage insurance on a conventional loan — exact monthly cost, the month it auto-cancels at 78% LTV, and the total dollars paid before that happens.
Direct answers to the most common questions, in plain language. Skim if you're in a hurry; dig deeper below.
Insurance for the lender when you put down less than 20%.
Private Mortgage Insurance protects the lender if you default. You pay it monthly until your loan-to-value (LTV) drops to 78–80%. Then it cancels automatically.
Typically 0.3% to 1.5% of the loan amount per year.
PMI rate depends on credit score and down payment. Excellent credit + 15% down: ~0.3%. Average credit + 5% down: 1.0–1.5%. On a $300k loan, that's $75–375 per month.
Automatically at 78% LTV, by request at 80% LTV.
Federal law requires automatic cancellation at 78% LTV based on original purchase price (or current appraisal, lender option). You can request cancellation at 80% LTV with a clean payment history.
Put 20% down, take a piggyback loan, or use lender-paid PMI.
Three main routes: (1) 20% down — clean and simple; (2) piggyback 80/10/10 — first mortgage + HELOC + 10% down; (3) lender-paid PMI — slightly higher rate forever, no monthly PMI line.
The mechanics in short answers — no jargon, no upsell.
If you put less than 20% down, the lender requires insurance against default. You pay the premium; the lender collects the payout.
Lower credit + smaller down payment = higher PMI rate. 740+ credit with 10% down is often around 0.4–0.6% annually.
Federal Homeowners Protection Act requires automatic cancellation when LTV reaches 78% based on original price. No request needed.
If your home appreciates and current LTV drops below 80%, you can request cancellation early. Lender requires a new appraisal (~$500), but it pays for itself fast.
Designed so anyone can model their situation in under a minute, with or without a finance background.
Exact dollars added to your payment, based on credit and down payment.
See the month PMI cancels — usually years sooner than expected.
PMI rate changes by tier — see the trade-off.
Total dollars paid before cancellation — usually $5–15k.
See if a larger down payment beats keeping the cash invested.
Auto cancellation, manual request, and refinance-out paths.
Everything you might ask before, during, or after using this tool.
It was through 2021. Currently (2026), PMI is not federally tax-deductible. Some states still allow it on state returns. Don't count on the deduction when evaluating whether to take PMI.
Not necessarily — it lets you buy a home with less than 20% down, which can be the right call if home prices are appreciating faster than you can save. PMI ends; missed appreciation doesn't come back.
PMI is on conventional loans and cancels at 78% LTV. MIP is FHA's version and (for loans originated after 2013 with less than 10% down) lasts the entire life of the loan. To kill MIP, you usually have to refinance to conventional.
Math: if you expect equity returns higher than your PMI rate, investing wins. PMI at 0.5% is easy to beat. PMI at 1.5% is tougher. Most buyers benefit from putting at least 10% down to bring PMI to a moderate level.
The lender pays PMI in exchange for charging you a higher interest rate (typically 0.25–0.5% higher). LPMI never cancels — you pay it via rate for the life of the loan. Only makes sense if you plan to refinance or sell within 5 years.
Yes, if your new loan-to-value is below 80%. If your home has appreciated or you've paid down enough principal, refinancing into a new conventional loan kills PMI immediately — often the cheapest escape from MIP on an FHA loan.
Depends on your local market and lender. Most lenders allow PMI cancellation at 80% LTV with a current appraisal showing the equity. In hot markets, this can happen within 2–3 years even with a 10% down payment.
Yes — every extra principal payment accelerates the LTV drop. The math: at a 5% PMI rate of $200/month, paying an extra $500/month principal in early years can drop PMI a year+ earlier — saving thousands.
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Conventional loan, less than 20% down: PMI applies until 78% LTV.
FHA loan: not PMI, but MIP — different rules, often permanent.
VA loan: no PMI ever (the VA funding fee is one-time, not recurring).
USDA loan: not PMI, but a 0.35% annual fee that runs the life of the loan.
Putting 20% down means tying up cash you could invest elsewhere. PMI lets you keep more capital deployed.
At a 0.5% PMI rate, paying PMI for 7 years costs less than the lost return on the down-payment difference if you average 6%+ on the money. At a 1.5% PMI rate, the math flips — bigger down payment wins.
Auto: 78% LTV (original price basis). Lender removes it without you asking.
Request: 80% LTV with clean payment history. Lender may require an appraisal.
Refinance: into a new conventional loan if current LTV is under 80%.
On FHA loans originated after June 2013 with less than 10% down, MIP lasts the life of the loan. It does not auto-cancel.
To escape, you refinance to conventional once you hit ~20% equity. Many buyers who go FHA at 3.5% down end up refinancing in years 4–7 to kill MIP.
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